Skill techniques for Angry Birds; how to minimize the need for luck
  • There are a few tricks involved in finishing or 3-starring levels that seem as if pure luck is needed. Here are a few of mine I discovered:

    1. "Last-second technique". Some players may already know this, but launching a special attack a few hundredths of a second before making contact with an object can increase damage potential. This is useful with the blue and yellow birds. A kamikaze attack at the last second with a blue bird can penetrate deeper into a rubble of blocks and destroy more of them in the way, especially when some of the blocks are ice blocks. When the yellow bird does this, it seems as if it hits the objects harder than usual.

    2. If using a stylus or mouse, it's important to know the exact placement of the hand to generate desired launch angles and distances. For instance, you can use a background object, such as a rock, as a guide for aiming your bird at a specific spot.

    3. The white bird requires a bit of practice, but can be extremely deadly when used correctly. When you find a small gap or alcove, launch this bird into it and then employ the "last-second technique" to fire an egg and propel the bird into the blocks above. This move has as much destructive force as an exploding black bird. In some cases, you can do an egg attack on a ground target, make the bird hit an airborne target, then let it fall into another ground-level target for maximum carnage. This is a heavy bird that can crash down on tough blocks easily. Mix and match combinations of attacks and practice with aim placement to land effective strings of hits.

    If you know of any additional tips and tricks you wish to share to help each other, then post them here.
  • 10 Comments
  • Here is one that might seem obvious when you think about it but not when you first start. If you crash any bird into a structure and you have to follow up with another bird behind it (or if the bird rolls/lands in an area where you want to fling the next bird, just wait until that bird pops and disappears. If by chance your newly flung bird hits the previous bird, it TOTALLY negates any damage potential. This goes for exploding and bomber birds as well.
  • The Last-second technique with white is also efective at high walls. If you lay the egg at last second at a fortified wall, the bird goes upward, and is VERY efective and simple too!
  • Most of us love Big Red, but he's not always reliable. Sometimes he gets good penetration, and even seems to accelerate through stuff, up to a certain point. But other times, he seems to get stuck really quickly, even if you release him at what you think is the same angle you used previously. Why is this? Is there a way to improve good penetration consistency? This problem is holding me back from a lot of great scores, especially on Big Setup.
  • Great thread!

    @Bill re: Big Red.

    Don't take this as gospel, but I learned that Big Red *seems* to get stuck or slow down considerably when it hits a plank that is buttressed, such as hitting the center of 45 degree wooden plank head on.

    For the most common example of this, note the planks that are slanted at an angle; more often than not slanted boards (usually wood, but can be stone, etc...) are slanted because they are supported by, and supporting, other blocks. So throwing big red straight at, let's say, a 45 degree angle slanted board, usually slows him down a lot. Moreover hitting a slanted board dead center can even stop big red's progress completely.

    If you must aim big red for a spot blocked by a slanted plank, it's best to either:
    1. Take out that plank with an earlier bird first, or
    2. Aim Big Red to (a) just miss the plank, (b) take out the blocks supporting the angled plank, or (c) at the very least, hit the edge of the plank (not the center) so that you smash the plank or move it out of the way while also smashing the block(s) that are connected to it. Keep in mind that you might be able to high arc Big Red to come down on these trouble spots rather than hitting them straight on.
  • I know everyone hates the green (boomerang) bird because of its extremely complicated mechanism of its special ability. However, I discover that the green bird does considerably more damage on wood, like the yellow bird. So I sometimes use it to make a direct hit (without activation) on wood, it works at times.

    Now for the complicated part:
    1. The green bird seems to be "lighter" than the other birds, so you need to keep an eye on the projectile.
    2. The mechanism of the green bird is that, when activated, the projectile changes as if the gravitational force has changed from downward to leftward, with the instant of activation as the starting point of the new projection. I know this sounds too academic, but hey, sometimes it helps me judge the approximate time of activation.

    And I love you, banzai, for opening this useful thread. :)
  • Thank you loox, that's a great explanation. Bullet, any comment that is academic is good, because this whole game is based on physics. Occasionally they don't make sense, and you think to yourself "why and how did that block not fall?"
  • One more thing: it seems that square frames are exceptionally rigid in Angry Birds. When a bird hits a square frame, it is almost certain that the bird will be stopped. Don't know why.
  • The square frames are tougher than single boards due to the pressure applied by the assembled corners. It's also weird how ice is shatterproof to some birds, yet can easily be destroyed by a tiny blue bird.
  • Maybe obvious to some, but the green bird can be used very effectively on a lot of levels by firing it backwards, and activating the ability so it boomerangs forward into a target. It does a lot more damage like this than just firing it normally and especially on levels that only contain one green bird, can open up new angles for the level. Just make sure you miss the next bird that will hop up to the catapult and get in the way.
  • Bird's speed have a half life.
    Blue= Half life of approx. 1 square hit (except ice, which is 2 squares hit)
    Yellow= Same as above (but except wood, which is 2 squares hit)
    Black= Approx. 2 squares hit.
    Green= Same as yellow.
    Red= Aprrox. 1 square hit.
    White= Same as red.
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